Gunfighters The Town Too Tough To Die

Gunfighters - Actors dressed in Earp costumes try to stay warm on Allen Street while they coax visitors to come see the 3:00 pm show.
Gunfighters – Actors dressed in Earp costumes try to stay warm on Allen Street while coaxing visitors to see the 3:00 pm show.

Ghost towns in Arizona are a dime a dozen. There are enough of them to fill a book. I know because I currently have five of them sitting on my shelves. The morphing of a city into a ghost town follows a familiar pattern. It starts with some loony prospector finding a valuable mineral—gold, silver, copper, diamonds, or another precious stone. News of the bonanza spreads quickly and lures a gaggle of opportunistic people. Half of them want to get rich by picking nuggets from the ground, and the rest want to pick them from someone’s pockets.

A new town springs from the ground like a children’s pop-up book. More people settled in the town and either got jobs at the mine or open shops that every mining community needed, like bars, gambling halls, and whore houses. Eventually—in a year, a decade, or a century—the gold (or whatever) pans out. The excitement of living in a mining town slowly dies, and its residents move on to the next boom town. Mother Nature reclaims the land without caretakers; all that remains is a pile of rotting wood, some foundations, and the eerie spirit of ghosts.

Of course, there are exceptions to my rule. In a handful of cases, when the mine goes bust, its residents look around and say to themselves, “This is a great place to live.” They find other sources of income. I call these places amusement communities. Examples that come to mind include Oatman, Jerome, Bisbee, Bagdad, Clifton, and Tombstone.

Of those locations, Tombstone is the odd duck. There are no gaping open pits to gawk at, historic hotels, or James Beard-worthy restaurants. I suspect that most of its visitors don’t even know about the silver mine. That’s because the silver vein wasn’t gigantic, and that’s how it got the name Goodenough Silver Mine. A gunfight between the Earps and the Clantons secured Tombstone’s historical spot. If it weren’t for that singular gang fight, Tombstone—’The town too tough to die’—would be a pile of splinters by now.

Don’t get me wrong; there is a list of exciting things to see in Tombstone. It was the Cochise County seat for a while, so there’s the old courthouse (with its gallows patio), the Crystal Palace back bar, the world’s largest dead rose bush, and the Birdcage theater should be on everyone’s checklist. Of course, if you have the time and money, you should see the show at the OK Coral, but realize that the actual gunfight was on Highway 80—behind the Coral.

I took this week’s photo on a cold, windy December afternoon. We had checked into our motel and started into town before the light faded. Standing in the middle of Allen Street (dirt, then paved until the street department poured dirt over it again—for authenticity) were four gunfighters dressed in black wearing badges. They tried to stay warm while they hawked visitors to the 3:00 pm show. I don’t know how successful they were because the streets were empty as people sheltered inside the bars. I titled this shot Gunfighters.

You can see a larger version of Gunfighters on its Webpage by clicking here. I hope you’ll join Queen Anne and me throughout January as we show some of the exciting Tombstone scenes we found.

Till next time
jw

BTW:

Queen Anne and I are working on our calendar for the year. We’re putting together a list of places we’d like to visit and this year’s book topics. If you have any requests, let us know in the comments section.

Chena River Crossing – Alaska She Cast No Shadow and Left No Mud—Just Questions

Last night, Anne and I drove to a river crossing our map claimed was “good for fishing.” It was around six—plenty of daylight left in an Alaskan summer—and Anne stayed in the car, deep into a Kindle novel, while I rigged up my fly rod.

I started casting along the right bank. No luck. So I moved upstream to the left of the parking area and made a few more casts. That’s when I heard a car door thud shut behind me. I turned, assuming Anne had gotten bored.

She hadn’t.

Instead, striding toward me was a slender woman of Asian descent, most likely Japanese. She had long legs, glossy black boots that somehow reflected the sky, black skinny jeans tucked in without a wrinkle, and a smoke-blue silk blouse that looked straight out of a travel fashion shoot and utterly out of place in bush country.

Her clothes whispered “high-end.” Her walk said “not in a hurry.” Her eyes—dark brown and direct—locked on mine as she smiled. She looked familiar, somehow. Like Janet Lee, the pool player, not the one from Psycho.

She carried a fly rod case, the good kind—big enough for a two-piece rod and reel combo, likely carbon fiber. When she stopped beside me, I forgot which hand my rod was in and managed to snap my fly line into the back of my head like a seaweed wreath.

“Do you mind if I fish the bank below you?” she asked, in a voice smooth enough to sell jazz records.

I meant to say, “Please, be my guest.” What came out was, “Why sointley.” Full Curly Howard. I winced.

She didn’t laugh. That was somehow worse.

She descended the muddy slope as if it were hardwood, said she’d caught two graylings here the other night, then squinted upstream. “Wait—this isn’t my spot. I was closer to that downed log.” And just like that, she turned and headed back up the bank.

I offered a hand. She declined, ascending as if by gondola. Her boots were still gleaming. No mud, no effort, no explanation.

She looked for a path through the aspens, found one, slipped around the last tree…

And vanished.

Gone. Not a sound. No footprints. Not even a branch was disturbed.

I stood there for a solid minute, trying to decide if I’d seen a spirit, an outdoor gear commercial, or an interdimensional guide sponsored by Orvis.

After exhaling and reeling in my limp fly line, I strolled back to the Mercedes.

I put away my gear, shut the door, and slumped into the driver’s seat.

Anne looked up from her Kindle. “What was that all about?”

I turned to her, wide-eyed. “Oh, thank God you saw her. I thought I was hallucinating.”

— jw